The new MGT 8.0 is Team Associated’s biggest and baddest Gas Powered RC Truck to date. It features an 8.0 engine, which is the biggest engine available by Team Associated in a RTR vehicle. The MGT 8.0 is basically an update of the original, but it also has several significant drivetrain and appearance changes. The tires are of new design and are optimal for most terrains. The rear bumper doubles as a wheelie bar and the new pistol-style starter is a refreshing change from the rotary style starters. It has an updated steel spur to help withstand the force of the powerful new engine. The tranny uses 2 speeds and includes reverse and the wheels are mounted on a not-so-common 22mm metal hex. The hexes can be swapped out if you want to use other wheels on the MGT 8.0.

Performance with the MGT 8.0 is startling at first. The motor fires right up without a problem and acceleration comes easy with a pull of the trigger, making good use of the wheelie bar. This truck is great for construction sites, flying up and down the dirt mounds, and jumping ditches.

The Specifics: The MGT 8.0 is 24.17 inches in length, 17.24 inches in width, and weighs in around 13 pounds. It is built out of aluminum and plastic. The suspension is an independent double-wishbone, oil filled shocks with fake reservoirs, a total of 8. The drive-train is full time 4WD with a 2-speed transmission, including reverse. The differentials are sealed six gears. The brakes are single steel disc, fiber-lined pads. The Power Package is the Team Associated Pro 8.0, slide-valve low and high-speed needle adjustments, an aluminum header and aluminum tuned pipe, and 4-shoe aluminum flywheel.

All-in-all this a great option when you are ready to take on a powerful 4WD off-road beast! It is definitely worth checking out!

More terms and definitions coming at ya! Enjoy!

Exponential Rate: This refers to servo travel that is not directly proportional to the degree of control input. A negative exponential rate makes the control response milder around the servo’s center point, but it becomes increasingly stronger as the input approaches 100%.

Failsafe: If the transmitter’s signal is lost or interrupted, a failsafe unit returns the servo to a predetermined position to avoid dangerous runaways. A battery failsafe is a safety feature that brings the throttle servo down to idle as a warning that the receiver battery’s voltage is getting dangerously low.

Fixed Link: Camber and steering links on many RTR vehicles use a nonadjustable link. These can usually be upgraded with turnbuckles as the driver’s skill improves, as he is looking for more adjustability.

Flywheel: The flywheel is the larger metal wheel that sits behind the clutch bell and aids the engine’s crankshaft with momentum and idling. For more torque and smoother idle, us a heavier flywheel; for improved top speed and throttle response, use a lighter flywheel. On non-pull-start models the flywheel is also used to start the engine with the use of a bump starter or starter box.

Foam Inserts: These inserts are used inside tires to help them retain their shape. Different densities are available for use on different track surfaces.

Thats all for today, more next time!

*thanks to RC Driver magazine and Tamiya for the latest RC terms and definitions!

One of the great things about the RC hobby is the terrain diversity. For example, you can romp around in the dirt, or you can speed around on the street. You can own the air with a plane or chopper, or you can take to the seas with a boat. In this article, i am going to cover taking to the seas with the electric RC boat called the Flying Fish Speed Racing boat. Now, the optimal type of water to run an RC boat on would be a nice smooth lake. I would not recommend trying to race around on choppy waters which makes it harder to keep control and might result in flipping the boat. Another thing to mention is that if you do happen to flip the boat or crash in some way, be prepared to get a little wet. Besides, whats the fun of playing at a lake if you don’t do a little swimming?

The Flying Fish is a good sized boat measuring 41 inches in length, 14 inches in width, 10 inches in height, and weighs in around 35 pounds. It is a full function RC boat powered by twin SC550 type racing motors. The propellers are professionally designed and the high-capacity rechargeable battery and quick battery charger make this a long running and high speed boat. Top speed is around 30 miles per hour. It has a Vector-Push design, and it easy to be controlled. The actuating mechanism is 100 percent metal which is very durable and long lasting. The Flying Fish comes 100 percent pre-assembled with glossy exterior paint and is ready to run.

What comes with it? The Flying Fish comes in a full package. The package includes the remote controller, 8AA batteries for the remote, a 12 volt RC2300 rechargeable battery and a 110 volt battery charger adapter.

Who is it for? This a bigger electric RC boat which is more powerful, faster, and more expensive. I would recommend this for intermediate to expert drivers, ages 12 and up. If you have not driven an RC boat before, i would start with something cheaper to get the hang of it and work your way up.

I hope this has been an informative article for you and i wish you luck with your RC boating hobby. Feel free to come check out some pictures of the Flying Fish or view our other Electric RC Boats.

Ryan Kramer is a Co-Owner and the CMO of Full Finger Throttle, L.L.C., a new website designed to inform and engage people in the wonderful world and hobby of Remote Controlled vehicles, Gas or Electric. Come visit us at Full Finger Throttle today!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ryan_Kramer

New terms and definitions coming at ya!

Damping: The rate at which a shock is compressed or rebounds. Most RC kits now contain shock absorbers that are filled with fluid/oil. Without this fluid, the shocks are bouncy and provide very little benefit where control is concerned. By changing the weight of the oil, or the type of shock piston, or both, you can change the damping rate to tune your car to a specific track and/or driving style.

Drag: When the air that flows over a car’s body hinders speed. Less drag means more speed; more drag means less speed. The shape of a car’s body will affect the amount of drag.

Drag Link: A bellcrank steering system consists of two posts connected by a bar. This bar is the drag link and is also referred to, by some, as Ackerman link.

Just a few today, more next time! Are you noticing a pattern in the definitions I am posting per blog?

Until next time, Ryan.

*thanks to RC Driver magazine and Tamiya for the latest RC terms and definitions!

The HPI Baja 5B ss is for intermediate to expert drivers, having all the bells and whistles, and is capable of reaching speeds of up to 46MPH. As a heads up, this kit comes with what seems like a thousand parts and can take a couple of days to put together. The good news is that the instructions are very clear and easy to follow. You will also need to buy a few things to complete the assembly such as a radio system, a high torque servo for the throttle/brake, a rechargeable receiver pack and a charger. The included engine is a 26cc 2 stroke gasoline engine, so a trip to the gas station is also a must. Just make sure to add the supplied 2 stroke oil to a gallon of gasoline. It also has a 8K rpm clutch, an aluminum tuned pipe, metal gear steering servo, swaybars,VVC HD shocks, heavy duty dogbones, an aluminum diff case and more.

All in all, this looks like a GPRC car that gives your plenty of bang for your buck! The capability of customizing and tuning the vehicle with things like paint, new tires, exhaust, and more, creates a wonderful toy to keep you engaged in the RC hobby. Obviously, this post is just a simple review of what i have read. For a more detailed review and also a review of each trial run over 3 terrains, feel free to go and pick up the latest RC Driver Mag. Dan Gomez did a great job of giving his thoughts and expert views on his experiences with the Baja SS. I will be adding this to my list of future investments on my path to experiencing all that the RC hobby has to offer!

Best Regards, Ryan.

Ok, so things have been crazy with work and such and I am finally getting a chance to throw a post into my busy schedule. Fortunately, this is a quick one. Here are the terms for this week:

Camber: This refers to the angle of the tires in relation to the ground as seen from the front and rear of the vehicle. Zero camber (90 degrees) refers to tires that are exactly perpendicular to the ground. Tires leaning toward each other have negative camber, while tires leaning away from each other have positive camber. A general rule of thumb is to have a slight bit of negative camber and to be sure both tires maintain the same camber angle. For the most part you should always avoid positive camber.

Cell: Battery packs are made of individual cells. A six-cell pack uses six separate cells soldered together to make a single battery pack.

Center of Gravity (CG): The higher your chassis components sit above your wheel’s axles, the higher the CG of your vehicle. As a result, it may roll over more easily during tighter turns. Keeping your CG as low as possible will provide a more stable vehicle.

Chassis: Made from aluminum, plastic composites, or woven carbon fiber, this is the main platform to which all other components attach.

Crankshaft: The shaft to which the flywheel and clutch bell are mounted. It is attached at the back to the piston by means of a connecting rod. The up-and-down motion of the piston causes the crank to rotate.

Crystal: A small interchangable element in radio systems that determines the frequency on which that radio will operate. You will find a crystal in the transmitter and in the receiver.

CVD (Constant Velocity Drive): This type of drive-shaft uses a ball-type setup that functions similarly to a universal drive-shaft. Although “CVD” is a trademark of MIP (Moore’s Ideal Products, Inc.), it has become commonly used to describe any drive-shaft of this type.

Thats all for this week! Check back regularly for some new articles and posts on different RC vehicles!

*thanks to RC Driver magazine and Tamiya for the latest RC terms and definitions!

Here we go again, the RC terms for today (or this week?) =)

Articulation: The ability of an axle to move in varying vertical directions (left wheel up, right wheel down or vice versa) relative to the chassis. It is a measure of the ease in which wheels stay in contact with the ground on an uneven surface.

BDC: Stands for Bottom Dead Center and refers to the piston’s position at the very bottom of it’s stroke. This is where you want it to be when the engine starts to cool down.

Bellcrank: Steering mechanism used in most RC vehicles that consists of two posts joined by a link. Each connects to a left or right steering knuckle with a turnbuckle with one post connected to the steering servo.

Big Block: Refers to engines that are .21 size or larger and .15 size engines that use the engine case of a .21.

Bleeding: It is necessary to remove all of the air and any excess oil when building or rebuilding shock absorbers. This is know as bleeding the shocks.

Blue Groove: This term refers to dirt tracks that have been smoothed out and packed down along the optimum racing line over time. A bluish tint results from tire wear.

Bushing: A metal, and sometimes nylon, “donut” that supports a rotating shaft (like an axle). Most metal bushing are made out of something like bronze oilite, a metal that is permanently lubricated.

Thats all for today! Keep checking back for more of the latest “terms” in the RC world!

*thanks to RC Driver magazine and Tamiya for the latest RC terms and definitions!

Once you get to the level of RC helicopter flight skills where the cheaper models don’t have enough functionality for you, then it is time to step up to the more advanced models. When you do this, you enter into a whole new world of RC helicopter flight with a complete different set of skills to master. The higher end models don’t just hover, turn left and right, and go up and down. They also have the capability to go forwards, backwards, and control the rudder, aileron, elevator, pitch and throttle. A lot of these controls can be new and mesmerizing, but don’t give up, simply read you manual and practice, practice, practice.

Ok, so you are ready to move up, which helicopter should you go with? Well, by popular demand, i would recommend the Honey Bee King 2. These fun and feisty little RC helicopters are well known and are great for stunt flying once you have the acquired skills (for a visual example, do a search on YouTube.com for the “Honey Bee King”, or check out the video on our site). The Honey Bee King 2 is an electric RC helicopter that comes ready to fly. This means that when you get it there is little to no assembly required. Simply charge your battery, read the manual, and get ready to fly!

What are some of the Honey Bee King 2’s features? Well, for starters, it is controlled by a 6-channel remote system. This is one of the higher amount of channel capabilities on electric RC vehicles and has a PIT and PLT mode lock switch and adjustable knob. It has improved blades for superior lift, which have a pop off design that provides extra protection for crash landings. The CCPM mixing control system and collective pitch structure make perfect 3D maneuvers such as roll, inverted flight, and swoop flights possible. This 120 degree CCPM system provides precise movement if comparing with the traditional mechanical mixing since there are less linkage/push-rods in the helicopter greatly reducing its weight. It also features Bell-heller mixing, which greatly increases the sensitivity of the whole helicopter, and provides for great acrobatic response.

The equipped O-ring inside the center hub reduces oscillation of the main blades, and the powerful 370 super carbon brush motor used for the main drive makes the helicopter’s flight more stable. The motor is powered by an 11.1v high capacity Li-Po battery, which holds charge for approximately 10 minutes of straight flight time. Another feature is the auto-rotation landing system, made of a high quality one-way bearing, which provides maximum protection from damage for your helicopter. The battery on the Honey Bee King 2 holds firmly in place and can be adjusted to suit your balance of flying. The tail rotor does NOT have a motor. Instead it is driven by a belt which helps to provide stable flight and low noise, and also prevents you from burning up tail motors. And lastly, it has a servo controlled rudder, just like gas helicopters.

How big is it? The Honey Bee King 2 is approximately 535 mm long (21 inches), 225 mm high (8.9 inches), has a flying weight of 470g (16.6 oz), is powered by a 370 super carbon brush motor, and has 4 - 8g servos and an outside piezo gyro.

What comes in the kit? There are two color options, white or yellow. The kit includes the Honey Bee King 2 electric RC helicopter (100% assembled), the 6-channel CCPM multi-functional FM RC Transmitter (remote, batteries not included), the Li-Polymer battery charger with Auto cut-off, a high quality 11.1v 1000mah Li-Polymer rechargeable battery pack, and the instruction manual.

Who should purchase it? This RC helicopter is perfect for people who want to move up from a 4-channel helicopter. It is also great for intermediate pilots or pilots who want to try inverted or 3D aerobatic flight. It is NOT a helicopter for a child.

To see a picture of the Honey Bee King 2, click on WHITE or YELLOW. Also, feel free to check out our other Electric RC Helicopters, or the video of the Honey Bee King on our home page

Ryan Kramer is a Co-Owner and the CMO of Full Finger Throttle, L.L.C., a new website designed to inform and engage people in the wonderful world and hobby of Remote Controlled vehicles, Gas or Electric. Come visit us at Full Finger Throttle today!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ryan_Kramer

Ok, because there are people out there who are relatively new to the RC world, me myself being somewhat of a newb, I’ve decided to start blogging a couple of RC terms and their definitions a couple of times a week. So, this being the first post, I will include a couple of different terms and then just go from there as time allows and as i learn more, so check back often!

1) Air Dam: To prevent a car from lifting off the track at high speeds, most touring car bodies have an extension or air dam in the front bumper that is designed to keep air from getting under the car.

2) AM (Amplitude Modulation): Most RTR (ready-to-run) kits come with AM radio systems, which are suitable for most newcomers. Serious racers will opt for FM or PCM radios because they are less prone to glitching.

3) Anti-Squat: This refers to the angle of caster on the rear wheels. Raising the front of the hinge pins of the rear arms gives a caster (anti-squat) angle and helps to transfer the power more evenly. This keeps the front of the vehicle from lifting under heavy acceleration.

So, there is your RC term definitions for today! I hope you learned some useful information that will help you along your path in the wonderful world of the RC hobby!

*thanks to RC Driver magazine and Tamiya for the latest RC terms and definitions!

So, i went out and purchased the March 2008 issue of RC Driver Mag, and one of the featured articles is on the Tamiya Hi-Lift Hilux. As i skimmed through the magazine, i came to this article and nearly choked at the realism of the “old school” Toyota pickup that Jason had put together. His design includes a “worn” look and all. Crawling, as some people call it, is an RC sport which includes simply driving slowly over rocks and debris, but the realistic RC vehicles make it the most fun. These vehicles literally look like the real things with the correct camera angles and proper detailing. It truly amazes me how realistic they can look! Jason’s Hilux has rust spots, worn out paint, weathered wheels, worn down tires (except the spare that is put on one of the wheels), all badging, etc. The attention to detail is boggling! In the last issue of RC Driver, they featured the Toyota FJ cruiser. Although this is not as much of an adrenalin rush, “crawling” is starting to draw my attention simply because it looks like a lot of fun to build such a realistic model and then photo and video the journey. This could definitely become a more relaxed and probably less expensive hobby for me very soon!

Go check out Tamiya’s different Hi-Lifts as well as the latest issues of RC Driver for pictures and more info! Seen you on the 4×4 path!